By: Hrayr Berberoglu
Toronto’s gastronomic scene just got a little better and is now more international, thanks to a new restaurant, Thuet Cuisine.
Marc Thuet, a talented young chef, who elevated many a Toronto restaurant to gastronomic fame and riches, opened his own new foodie Mecca just next to Lee’s on King Street west.
The establishment is owned by Franco Prevedello, now in the agency business among other enterprises and an old restaurateur, and leased to Thuet.
On Valentine’s Day, the first ever meal was served after a tasting of exquisite Alsatian wines, Alsace being the home of Marc Thuet.
The open concept, back-to-back laid out kitchen is equipped with two ovens; the dining room furnished with comfortable leather-bound chairs. A few semi-circular booths provide some privacy to those wanting to discuss business or private matters. Well-lit, the restaurant has a severe, serious look suggesting excellent food and “telepathic” service, where servers anticipate guests’ needs and fulfill them.
The cutlery manufactured by Gebrueder Hepp in Pforzheim, Germany is well designed and large enough to accommodate food comfortably. The china comes from Hutschenreuter in Germany and France for special presentations.
A few stairs connect the restaurant with the street level entrance. Thuet’s restaurant has the potential to become a Mecca for all who like good, imaginatively presented, well prepared food, created by devoted cooks who worked with Marc previously and are interested in learning even more.
The menu served consisted of the following courses:
Amuse bouche
**
Foie gras au torchon et truffes avec sa gelee de canard et Tokay Pinot Gris vendange tardives
(Fattened goose liver en torchon with duck and a jelly of late harvest Tokay Pinot Gris)
Pinot Gris Patergarten 2002 Paul Blanck et Fils.
**
Pot au feu Strasbourgeois aux quenelles a la moelle
(Strasbourg-style pot au feu with marrow dumplings)
Crystal d’Alsace 2003 Dopff et Irion
**
Sorbet au Marc de Gewurztraminer
(Gewurztraminer eau-de-vie-infused sorbet)
**
Choucroute garni au Riesling
(Alsatian-style Riesling-infused Sauerkraut)
Riesling Cuvee Albert Mann 2003 Albert Mann
**
Le Roi des fromage Alsacien en surprise sur un coulis de Poire Williamine
(King of Alsatian cheeses in puff pastry, coulis of Poire Williamine
Gewürztraminer Reserve 2002 Pierre Sparr
**
Gugelhupf glace au Kirsch accompagne d’un Rumtopf coulis
(Kirsch eau-de-vie-flavoured Gugelhupf parfait with Rumtopf
Muscat 2002 Domaine Martin Zahn
**
Mignardises
Café Colombien ou l’infusion de the
The amuse bouche presented in an emptied eggshell with scrambled egg and brunoise of black truffle was an excellent beginning signaling the delights to follow.
The breadbasket contained all home-baked breads of very high quality and a range of textures. Assorted breads were artistically arranged in the silver basket and much appreciated by all.
The foie gras en torchon was presented on a plate designed in the form of a swan, with frisee lettuce, a few drops of extra virgin French olive oil and late harvest Tokay Pinot Gris-infused jelly. The composition and harmony of flavours showed how Thuet’s imagination and competence makes for excellent flavorful combinations and appealing presentations.
Pot au feu Strasbourgeois consisted of a strong beef consommé with delicate beef marrow dumplings.
The sorbet to refresh the palate and contract the stomach was just right to accomplish the purpose of this course.
The main course, a typical Alsatian specialty of Riesling-flavored sauerkraut with an assortment of sausages (black pudding included), speck and tender pork loin, was artistically presented and flavourful to much acclaim. The Riesling Cuvee A. Mann enhanced the flavours appropriately.
The warm cheese course in a puff pastry was rich and creamy, with a little sweetness that detracted from the dry Gewurztraminer Reserve 2002 from
P. Sparr. The course was delightful on its own.
At this point Marc Thuet’s ability to combine wine, distillates, and food became absolutely clear. He knows exactly how to accomplish this without the alcohol overpowering the dish. Herein lies his culinary genius.
The Gugelhupf, an old Alsatian specialty re-interpreted by Thuet, showed how classics can be presented in a novel fashion and made appealing to an appreciative New World clientele.
The Muscat 2002 from Domaine Martin Zahn was delightful on its own, but too dry for this dessert.
The mignardises consisting of an assortment of pastries and a few chocolate truffles represented an excellent finish to an extended meal.
Gourmets should rejoice at the opportunity to experience well-presented imaginative food, exquisitely served by competent servers.
Hurry to make your reservations before well-heeled foodies overrun the restaurant.
Hrayr taught at the largest and oldest post secondary restaurant and hotel management school in Canada for over a quarter of a century. During his tenure he researched, wrote, and published over 35 textbooks, many of which are used in schools across the continent and by thousands of professionals.
He is available for informal and entertaining speaking and tasting engagements on wine, beer, spirits and food in and around GTA.
Interested parties can contact him at [email protected].
©copyright 2005 Christopher Klugman, All Rights Reserved
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