By: Hrayr Berberoglu
Every Burgundy enthusiast knows that the 2003 vintage in that northerly region was exceptional; it can safely be referred to as a “quality” harvest as compared to a “quantity” harvest the previous year. A comparison of the wine from the same vineyard in both vintages was an absolute revelation.
When the 2003 vintage Burgundies hit the L C B O shelves, those who enjoy the intricacies of Pinot noir should rush to make their purchases. Some may even be willing to drive to Buffalo, Rochester or New York to buy a few cases. The stores there have a wider selection from a range of shippers. Be careful to choose reputable shippers like Bouchard Père et Fils, L. Latour, Domaine Leroy, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Leflaive, Ramonet, Tollot-Baut, J. Drouhin, Trapet et Fils and Coche-Dury (just to name a few). Always remember that you get what you pay for, particularly in Burgundy.
During the growing season the vineyards of Côte d’Or enjoyed exceptionally hot and dry weather, starting in February and finishing in September. All previous records were broken with regard to early maturity, drought, sunshine hours, extreme temperatures (nine consecutive days with temperatures above 40 C) which caused sunburnt, shrivelled grapes, that had to be culled on sorting tables. Some wineries used two sorting tables to ensure the removal of all shriveled grapes. Yields were low in some cases by 50 percent, in others approximately 33 – 55. Given the extraordinary characteristics of this vintage the “Ban de vendanges” (Authorization to start harvesting) was August 19 which is the earliest on record, and Bouchard Père et Fils 
(a company in business since 1731) started harvesting August 21 with local help. Some wineries could not get pickers, many of whom were enjoying themselves on the beaches of the Mediterranean Sea further south. In Beaune, the wine trade capital of Burgundy, the grapes had accumulated enough sugar to yield 13.5-to 14.0 percent alcohol, a rare occurrence in these parts.
The reds are superb, deep red and purple in colour with aromas reminding one of ripe fruit. In the mouth soft tannins are noticeable, with full body and good acidity. These wines should last a long time. The whites have a pale colour with greenish hues, and aromas of very ripe fruit. Citrus aromas dominate. The wines are full-bodied and luscious. 
Mr. Luc Bouchard, the export director of Bouchard Père et Fils was in Toronto recently to present his 2003 vintage wines and Chablis house William Fèvre. The former director of Henriot, an old and well-established Champagne house, owns both companies. All wines were excellent and of high alcohol levels, due to super ripeness of the fruit.
Reds: Santenay - brilliant colour, cherries, great depth $ 36.00 Score 90
Monthelie Les Duresses - distinct strawberry aromas, full-body, and refined $ 40.00 Score 91
Beaune du Château – multidimensional with a long aftertaste $ 47.00 Score 91
Beaune Marconnets – vivid red colour, ripe tannins, excellent finish $ 62.00 Score 92
Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus – bursting with fruit, full body, elegant and extremely long aftertaste $ 120.00 Score 94
Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot – crimson, excellent depth, elegance and softness $ 84.00 Score 92
Pommard Les Chanlins – robust, strong grip, a vin de garde $ 93.00 Score 89
Le Corton – fruity, strawberry aromas dominating, soft, refined $ 125.00 Score 93
Gevrey-Chambertin – fine balance and depth. Needs at least three to four years of cellaring. Long aftertaste. $ 57.00 Score 92
Nuits Saint Georges Les Cailles – good fruit, acid-driven, full-bodied $ 102.00 Score 90
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots – almost floral aromas, underlined with stone fruit aromas, in soft in the mouth, full-bodied and with a long satisfying aftertaste $ 139.00 Score 92
Whites:
Beaune du Château – perfumey, full bodies, mineral flavors and long finish $ 47.00 Score 90
Meursault Les Clous – intriguiging aromas of apples and pears, delicate, with a fine balance $ 62.00 Score 92
Meursault Genevrières – fruity, oak aromas noticeable, mineral flavours in the mouth, long aftertaste $ 98.00 Score 92
Corton-Charlemagne – elegant, soft, fruity bordering on perfumey, oak flavours underlining fruit subtly, full body, well balance $ 290.00 Score 94
Chablis – William Fèvre Chablis Vaillons – elegant, soft, full bodied and particularly suitable with crustaceans and bi-valves $ 49.00 Score 91
Chablis Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent – smokey undertones from about 12 months of barrel aginf for 40 percent of the fruit, excellent depth and elegance $ 57.00 Score 92
Chablis Bougros – brilliant greenish colour, soft and refines. High alcohol with good extract. Suitable for pan-fried salmon, oysters on the half shell with a drop of lemon and steamed mussels $ 77.00 Score 91
Chablis Les Clos soft yet high in alcohol, ripe fruit aromas, excellent mineral taste in the mouth $ 98.00 Score 93
All of the above can be ordered by the case through Woodman Wine & Spirits (416) 767-5114 Fax (416) 767-9008. Prices are estimates and may change. Licensees receive five percent discount
Hrayr taught at the largest and oldest post secondary restaurant and hotel management school in Canada for over a quarter of a century. During his tenure he researched, wrote, and published over 35 textbooks, many of which are used in schools across the continent and by thousands of professionals.
He is available for informal and entertaining speaking and tasting engagements on wine, beer, spirits and food in and around GTA.
Interested parties can contact him at [email protected].
©copyright 2005 Christopher Klugman, All Rights Reserved
Here, a myriad of bottle shapes, price tags and quality levels carry the label “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena”. In Modena, much of what passes for balsamic vinegar would carry an ingredient listing something like this: vinegar, sugar, colouring. 
Ricotta Ice Cream 
Place sugar in a small saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons water. Heat until sugar dissolves, adding more water if necessary. Remove from heat, allow to cool. 
